Retro moda

Forma_Ideale

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1.451
... u slici i reči.

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Par modela iz 50-ih.

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Kupaći kostim iz 1948.

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Spavaćica iz 1960.

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Spavaćice iz 1970.

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(Ne morate postavljati slike samo onoga što vam se dopada.
Temu sam zamislila kao enciklopediju retro, prevaziđene mode, obzriom da se najčešće i uglavnom diskutuje i polemiše o trendovima i "must have" odevnim i drugim predmetima.
Dakle, sve što predstavlja podsetnik, pogled unazad, retrospektivu, možete postavljati ovde, bez obzira je li to po vašem ukusu ili ne. To može biti slika, ali i činjenica ili neki podatak. Možda i nešto novo naučimo postujući o starom. :))
 
Evo jos malo o 50-im.. u slici i reci ;)

Dakle, ono sto je bilo karakteristicno za taj period je pojava New Look-a.
Kristijan Dior je bio jedan od mnogih modnih dizajnera koji ce, prepoznajuci psiholosku potrebu za promenom, nakon zavrsetka rata ponuditi mekse i prefinjenije siluete odece. On je 1947. godine lansirao revolucionarnu kolekciju (kasnije nazvana New Look) koja je u potpunosti odbacila jednostavan, strogi stil iz ratnog vremena: ramena su bila uska, okrugla, struk tanak, suknje su bile veoma siroke i dosezale su do sredine listova. Rukavice, sesiri i cipele sa visokim potpeticama dopunjavale su NL.
U pocetku ovakav look odusevljeno je prihvatila samo modna avangarda. Medjutim, ubrzo su prepoznate komercijalne mogucnosti ovog stila u Americi i Dior dobija prestiznu nagradu za svoju kolekciju.


Model iz kolekcije K. Diora

Veoma moderne tih godina bile su uske pantalone sa prorezima sa strane - kapri pantalone.
Njih je ocigledno volela i Odri Hepbern :)

 
Naravno, za pedesete vezuje se i pojava rokenrola i tinejdzerske kulture.

Dzins - nekada radno odelo americkih farmera, sada postaje simbol pobunjene omladine.
Ubrzo ce preplaviti trziste kao univerzalna, uniseks odeca u kojoj citave generacije mladih ljudi nalaze svoj izraz.


Elvis dzins :D

U okviru kulture mladih pojavice se potkulturne grupe sa specificnom ideologijom i specificnim izgledom, koji je znacio otpor konformizmu.

Americki bitnici - njihova kultura promovisala je izjednacavanje sa crncima. Bili su ocarani modernim dzezom, istocnjackim religijama, marihuanom.. Namerno su nosili iznosene farmerke i sandale, a mogli ste ih prepoznati i po tamnim naocarama, beretkama, rolkama.. Devojke su pustale kosu i nosile crne trikoe. Svojom antimaterijalistickom filozofijom uticali su i na mnoge muzicare 60-ih, Bob Dilana, Bitlse..


Dzek Keruak, vodeci glasnogovornik bitnik generacije



U pariskim podrumskim barovima mladi inspirisani egzistencijalizmom (pre svega Z.P. Sartra i A. Kamija) iskazivali su svoju ozbiljnost odevajuci se u crno;

U Britaniji neoedvardijanski stil, nekada ogranicen na elitnu grupu, pojavio se u londonskom East End-u, gde je doziveo reinterpretaciju od strane mladih Teddy Boys-a ili tedijevaca pocetkom pedesetih. Oni su krali stil ‘gornje klase’ (brilijantin, cipele od antilopa, uske kravate, odela i sl.)


Teddy Boys

Bajkeri se formiraju nakon filma The Wild One sa Marlon Brandom u glavnoj ulozi (1954), a glavno obelezje im je crna kozna jakna (poznati pod nazivom Ton-up Boys-i)


Brando, The Wild One


Ipak, ove subkulturne grupe ostaju marginalne i nikad nisu bile dovoljno mocne da ugroze glavni modni pravac...
 
The Bob

H
airstyles of the 1920s created more controversy in hair fashion than in any other period of American culture. And one hairstyle, known simply as ¾ “the bob,” would be at the center of this great debate. First introduced during the Great War, the bob haircut would eventually cause a revolution in the way women would wear their hair ¾ forevermore.

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It all started in 1915 with the debut of the Castle Bob, named after the celebrated ballroom dancer Irene Castle. While cutting her hair for convenience, little would she know that she would forever be associated with triggering a revolution in 20th-century hair fashion. The Castle Bob would be the first indication of things to come ¾ the rage of short hair.

T
he bob haircut was simply a blunt cut, level with the bottom of the ears all around the head. It was worn either with bangs or with the hair brushed off of the forehead. It was a simple look but a drastic departure from the long feminine looks created by Gibson and Marcel.

T
he free-spirited youth of the day readily accepted the new look and made it the forerunner of many fads and fashions which eventually led to new curling, perming and coloring methods. When a woman had her hair cut short, she grew bolder. Soon she began wearing ‘long beads, short skirts, rolled stockings, and rough on her knees,’ an expression synonymous with ¾ the flapper. The rebellious change in hairstyle was just the beginning of a major change in societal norms and values seen during the 1920s.

On May 1, 1920, the Saturday Evening Post published
F. Scott Fitzgerald’s short story "Bernice Bobs Her Hair." This infamous tale depicts a sweet-but-dull young lady who submits to the barber’s shears and is transformed into a smooth-talking vamp by her fickle society-girl cousin. The heroine would become a role model for many young women. (Ceo tekst: http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/bernice.html)

By 1921, following the lead of fashion designer "Coco" Chanel and actresses Clara Bow and Louise Brooks, young women everywhere took the plunge and began bobbing their hair.

Clara Bow
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Louise Brooks
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As the younger generation eagerly embraced this latest fad, women of all ages would soon find themselves having to face a critical decision – to bob, or not to bob. Many were fearful of taking the plunge only to discover that long hair would quickly be back in vogue. In fact, professional hair publications predicted an immediate return to long hair. However, it was difficult to ignore the continued popularity of the bob.

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ears and smelling salts accompanied the sacrifice as shorn cascades of crowning glories tumbled to the floors of barbershops. Men raged over the female invasion of the barbershop but at that time, the-cutting-of-hair was still a male-dominated occupation. In some cities, long lines of women were reported standing outside barbershops while inside, many women patiently sat on floors waiting their turn to be bobbed. In New York City, reports of up to 2,000 heads per day were being clipped.

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O
verseas, it was reported that while King George took no official position to the controversy of bobbed hair, her majesty, Queen Mary, preferred if ladies with short hair would in some way conceal that fact at court functions or royal ceremonies. Hair additions, as depicted in this 1920s advertisement, were commonly used to conceal the shingled back. Many women actually saved their long locks just so they could use them to conceal their new haircut!

H
airdressers were forced into accepting the bob after losing so many clients and profits to the barber. As hairdressers became more skilled at their craft, other more sophisticated cuts were introduced. Women eventually wore their hair bobbed in waved or shingled styles.
 
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By 1925, the bobbed hair controversy still raged. A teacher in Jersey City, New Jersey was actually ordered by her Board of Education to let her hair grow! The Board claimed that women waste too much time fussing with bobbed locks. Preachers warned parishioners that “a bobbed woman is a disgraced woman.” Men divorced their wives over bobbed hair. One large department store fired all employees wearing bobbed hair.

And to make matters worse, the bold and daring flapper pushed the envelope even further when she subjected herself to the shingle bob causing even more controversy. In a letter to the editor of a professional hair publication, one parent deplored this newest version of the bob: “From the rear, it is hard to tell a girl from a boy, since the advent of the shingle bob.” And, “I’ve raised my girls to be women and my boys to be men, but since the advent of this shingle bob, I have to look twice at my own offspring to tell which is which.”


S
hingle Bob

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The shingle or the "boyish bob" introduced in 1923 featured hair which tapered into a V-shape at the nape of the neck with either waves or spit curls at the sides.

In time society would be more forgiving and by 1927, the shingle bob would no longer be a big controversy. The severity of the style had been tested and women were now experimenting with softer more feminine looks to usher in the 1930s.


Did you know?
Bobbed hair prompted the invention of the bobbie pin!


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Evo jos malo o 50-im.. u slici i reci ;)

Dakle, ono sto je bilo karakteristicno za taj period je pojava New Look-a.
Kristijan Dior je bio jedan od mnogih modnih dizajnera koji ce, prepoznajuci psiholosku potrebu za promenom, nakon zavrsetka rata ponuditi mekse i prefinjenije siluete odece. On je 1947. godine lansirao revolucionarnu kolekciju (kasnije nazvana New Look) koja je u potpunosti odbacila jednostavan, strogi stil iz ratnog vremena: ramena su bila uska, okrugla, struk tanak, suknje su bile veoma siroke i dosezale su do sredine listova. Rukavice, sesiri i cipele sa visokim potpeticama dopunjavale su NL.
U pocetku ovakav look odusevljeno je prihvatila samo modna avangarda. Medjutim, ubrzo su prepoznate komercijalne mogucnosti ovog stila u Americi i Dior dobija prestiznu nagradu za svoju kolekciju.


Model iz kolekcije K. Diora

Veoma moderne tih godina bile su uske pantalone sa prorezima sa strane - kapri pantalone.
Njih je ocigledno volela i Odri Hepbern :)


:klap: prelepo, obozavam modu iz 50tih i sezdesetih godina proslog veka, po mom misljenju najinspirativniji period u istoriji mode.
Frizure koje su onda bile popularne nose se danas i izgledaju fantasticno


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Diorov new look je prica za sebe, zenstvenost na prvom mestu.
Stariji originalni model
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New Look tribute: Galianno, Valentino, Lagerfeld za Chanel...verovatno ima jos dizajnera koje je inspirisao NL, ja sam ubacila one koji se meni najvise svidjaju ;)

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